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  Lindsay Graver Blanks


Carbalt™ 3/32" square" x 2-3/8"
(.094" +-.001")
2 pack $32

5 pack $75
Note: These Carbalt blanks are not tapered. The various Lindsay sharpening templates have built in tapering facets which are used to bring the tip down to the desired size.  A point can be shaped to a small tip using sharpening templates.  A time saving option are the 3 variations of tapered Carbalt blanks offered below.  Yet another option is the "Narrower" template  ($8) which has customizable options to taper and thin a graver shank before sharpening.

Tapered Carbalt™ Blanks
Available in the following tapers

$23 each.
Sold in packs of


Add To Cart
1 Degree
Add To Cart
2 Degree
Add To Cart
3 Degree
Add To Cart

Get three pieces of 3 degree and two pieces 2 degree (total five)
Add To Cart


1 Degree
2 Degree
3 Degree

Click photo to enlarge

View the information and tips concerning rigidity and breaking points if using thin graver shanks on the Graver blanks page.

Note: the 3 degree or 2 degree taper is recommended over straight or 1 degree tapers. If new to engraving stick with the 3 degree to keep the rigidity in the shank while learning. 

3/32" square x 2-1/2"
(.094" +-.001")

5 pack $50

High Speed Steel
3/32" square x 2-1/2"
(.094" +-.001")

5 pack $30

Spin this lap to demagnetize gravers or other small metal objects. To use, hold the object to be demagnetized close to the center of the spinning lap and pull the object straight away from the center.

Forum thread about the Anti-MagLap


Comes with a 1/2" hole in the center so that it can be mounted on a power hone. Or it can be mounted on a "mandrel lap adapter" (sold above) so that a drill press or electric hand drill can be used to spin the lap. Big thank you to Paolo for his contribution and help with this lap!

 Anti-MagLap $46

"Narrower" Template Click photo to enlarge
The photo below illustrates three thinning techniques.


Thinning the tip of the blank can be done using this template which fits on the Lindsay sharpening fixture. 

Illustrating how the pin can be moved if desired to rotate the grinds 45 degrees to the shank.  "Narrower" Template 
Add To Cart


Graver narrowing tips

A long, thin shank can be useful, but there are drawbacks as well.

The bright side is that there is less material to grind away when sharpening, and that the view is less obstructed when engraving.

The disadvantage of a narrow shank is the lack of rigidity.  An experienced engraver comes to realize that the object being engraved needs to be held securely in a vise to get the best results.  If there is any recoil movement, things get difficult.  The metal will seem to cut harder and more broken points will occur.  The same principle applies to your cutter.  When a long, thin graver is used with a power assisted graver, it will flex or vibrate with the result of power loss and more broken points.  A thicker, shanked graver can make noticeably cleaner cuts than the same point on a long, slender shank when used in a power graver.  That said, the effect is less pronounced when cutting fine lines.

A means for having a balance of both rigidity and a small tip is a taper rectangle shaped shank (similar to a knife blade).  The "Narrower" template works to grind such a shank accurately. 

Graver Material Comparison Chart

  HSS M42 Carbalt™

Durable, less likely to break. Less expensive

Harder than HSS and holds a cutting edge longer while still maintaining good durability for less point breaking. Less expensive than Carbalt™XD.

Harder than M42 and HSS.  More durable than straight carbide gravers.  Holds up in harder metals, stainless, gun and knife metals with stronger ground geometry.  Cutting edge holds up the longer than HSS or M42 without going dull. Engraving in brass, gold, silver, and platinum maintains a polished cut without gulling.


Cutting edge wears faster than does M42 or Carbalt™, requiring more frequent resharpening.  Engraving in Brass, Gold, Silver, and Platinum do not cut as bright compared to cuts using Carbalt™. 

More expensive than HSS.  Engraving in brass, gold, silver, and platinum do not cut as bright compared to cuts using Carbalt™. 

Most expensive. More likely to break than go dull.  Not recommend for narrow fragile geometry ground points in harder metals.


Good for making points that are narrow and fragile, such undercut gold inlay gravers, narrow flats and Vs. In years past used by many engravers as an all around less expensive graver.

Same as HSS but all around improvement of holding an edge longer without becoming dull as easily as HSS. 

In harder metals Carbalt™ is great for stronger shaped geometry such as Lindsay Uniform-Parallel points, 96 degrees and wider.  To increase strength of a point dub the face to effetely place a small steep face right at the tip. Less strong geometry points can be used in softer metals such as gold, silver, copper..etc.

Note: It has come to our attention that some inferior tool blanks are being offered by others. These blanks may be seriously undersized and therefore may not sharpen properly in the Lindsay sharpening system.  It has been noted by some of our Lindsay tool users that they may wobble slightly in the holder, causing difficult cutting, especially of fine shade lines.  By contrast Lindsay blanks are manufactured to precise tolerances to within +- .001 inch of the 3/32 inch specifications.  We must warn our users, to insure proper function of your Lindsay Sharpening system, and Lindsay air tools, be sure to use authentic Lindsay Carbalt™, M42 and High speed tool blanks. Accept no substitutes!

Lindsay Carbalt™ 3/32" Square Graver Blanks

Lindsay Carbalt™ has gotten even better.  Lindsay Carbalt™ is even more durable than the orginal plus they are longer.  Certified Fega Master Engraver Ron Nott helped in the testing and development of this latest extra durable Carbalt™. The  gravers are fine-grain carbide and cobalt. The grade was developed in close collaboration with several carbide manufacturers for the specific use of hand engraving and impact resistance.  These gravers can be ground and shaped with either a silicon carbide grinding wheel, a diamond grinding wheel or a diamond hone.  When rough grinding, if the material becomes hot, DO NOT quench in water.  Heat will not anneal or damage the material as it does high-speed, tool steel or tool steel with cobalt, but quenching while it is hot will cause the the mixture to become brittle causing the point of the graver to break more easily during use.  Water may be used to keep the heat down in general though.  Do this by grinding until the surface being ground becomes only warm to the touch and then dip in water.  There may only be a second or two of grinding between dipping, but keep dipping in and out of the water during grinding.  This will keep the graver from getting hot, assuring the material does not become damaged.  The type of grinding that builds up heat is usually done to rough the graver blank to shape.   For final shaping and sharpening use a diamond lap either by hand or with a slow speed power hone which will not cause excessive heat.

Carbalt™ 3/32" square x 2 3/8" long graver blanks are surface ground on all four sides to a tolerance of plus or minus 0.001" of the 3/32" size assuring a consistent fit. 

Graver Grinding

Precautions should be taken when grinding high speed steel, tool steel, carbon steel, tungsten carbide gravers.  Dust from grinding metals can cause nose, throat, skin and eye irritation and temporary or permanent respiratory disease in a small percentage of exposed individuals.

Take the following safety precautions:
1. If using a diamond lap, coat the lap with oil or water to keep the grinding dust from becoming airborne.
2. Wash hands after grinding and before eating or smoking
3. Clean up grinding dust with wet paper towels or rags and discard of properly.

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